Balykcha lies at the southern end of Lake Teletskoye, the great blue lake of the Altai, and the name has the sound of a place at the end of the road. Teletskoye is about eighty kilometres long, narrow and very deep, with a maximum depth of around 325 metres, and it is held between steep, forested mountains that fall straight into the water. Locals call it the little sister of Baikal, a comparison that is more affectionate than scientific, and the water is clear, cold and drinkable. It is the largest lake in the Altai, and the region around it is part of the Altai Nature Reserve, which is on the UNESCO World Heritage List.
The southern shore is wild, forested and roadless, and getting there is part of the challenge. Most visitors reach the lake by road to Artybash at the northern end, and then travel by boat or on foot, since no highway follows the shore. At the south, the Chulyshman River pours into the lake out of a deep gorge, one of the wildest corners of the range, with waterfalls and canyons. The Chulyshman valley is reached by rough tracks, often only passable in dry weather, and is a favourite for jeep expeditions and adventurous riders.
The surrounding forest is cedar, fir, larch and birch, with a rich understory of ferns, berries and mosses, and the air is filled with the scent of resin. Wildlife includes bears, maral deer, sable and a great variety of birds, though you are more likely to hear than see them. The Altaians, who live along the shores and in the valleys, regard the lake as sacred, and local myths speak of giants and spirits.
The tracks in this region are rough, steep and often muddy, with stream crossings and rockfalls, and distances are long, with nothing in between. A dual-sport bike, solid experience and a companion are minimum requirements. The window is short, from late June to September, and weather can turn quickly, with fog and rain sweeping down the lake.
The nearest reliable supplies are a long way off, in towns on the Chuya Highway or at Gorno-Altaysk, so plan your range carefully, carry spare fuel, and bring food, water and a way of making repairs. A boat trip on the lake, from the northern end, is a simpler way of seeing the same scenery. Come in the early morning, when the lake is calm and the mountains are mirrored in the water.