Inland from the Costa Daurada, the Serra de Llaberia rises abruptly above the coastal plain, a jagged wall of limestone separating the sea from the valley of the Ebro. The rock shelter of Balma d'En Roc lies in this rough country, part of the Levantine rock art inscribed by UNESCO, and like most of its kind it is small, fragile and best visited with local guidance. The nearest villages are scattered: Ginestar on the Ebro, El Perelló on the coastal side, and Mont-roig del Camp to the north-east.
The landscape is the star. The mountains are covered in pine, holm oak and dense Mediterranean scrub, broken by cliffs and gorges, and from the higher roads you can see down to the sea on one side and across the Ebro valley to the hills of the Terra Alta on the other. Eagles and vultures ride the thermals above the ridges. In summer the air smells of pine resin and dry herbs, and the risk of forest fires is high, so be careful with anything that might spark.
History runs deep here. The Ebro valley just to the west was the scene of the longest and bloodiest battle of the Spanish Civil War in 1938, and the area around Gandesa and Corbera d'Ebre still has trenches, memorials and the ruins of the old village of Corbera, left as a reminder. The Priorat wine region, with its steep terraces of slate and powerful red wines, lies a short ride north.
The roads around the Serra de Llaberia are a fine mix of twisty mountain passes and quiet back lanes. Climbs through the hills from the coast to the Ebro valley have tight hairpins, steep gradients and great views, and traffic is light away from the main routes. Watch for gravel and for cyclists, who love these climbs as much as motorcyclists do. Summer brings heat and holiday traffic on the coast; spring and autumn are perfect.
For fuel and supplies, Mont-roig del Camp, about sixteen kilometres away, is the nearest larger town, and the coast has plenty of stations. Smaller villages may have only a bar or a shop. Try a plate of calçots in late winter, the grilled spring onions dipped in romesco sauce, or simply local olive oil drizzled on bread with a glass of Priorat wine.