Bajo Caracoles is hardly a town at all, and that is exactly why it is famous. Out on the Patagonian steppe in northern Santa Cruz, on one of the most remote stretches of Ruta 40, a handful of buildings stand beside the road: an old general store and hotel, a fuel pump, a few houses and a lot of sky. Its name, meaning low place of the snails, refers to the fossil shells found in the surrounding ground, and the whole area is a dry seabed that was lifted up when the Andes formed.
For a rider, it is a lifeline and a landmark. The gravel of Ruta 40 here is long, straight and often rough, with loose stones, washboard and sections of deep ripio that demand a steady throttle and a loose grip. Wind is constant, and can blow so hard that the dust hangs sideways across the road. The distances between settlements are enormous, so the pump and the tiny shop here are among the few places for hundreds of kilometres where you can count on anything, though supplies can run out and the pump is not always open, so carry spare fuel and food and ask in advance if you can.
The old hotel and store have been a stop for travellers for almost a century, and the bar, with its walls covered in stickers and messages from passing riders, is a place to sit and swap stories. Expect simple meals, strong coffee and a bed that is a good deal better than the tent you might otherwise be using. The people who run the place know the road well and will tell you about the weather and what is ahead.
Beyond the buildings, the steppe is a quiet theatre. Guanacos graze among the shrubs, rheas run across the plain, and foxes and hares dart between the bushes, while condors circle overhead on the afternoon thermals. In the distance, the Andes rise white and blue, and at night the stars are so thick that they seem to hang just above your head. Spring and autumn can bring snow and ice, so the best months are December to February. A night here, with the wind outside, is one of the true Patagonian experiences.