The name means wood bay in Dutch, because the early settlers cut timber from the forests in this valley to build and heat Cape Town. Today the harbour is lined with fish-and-chip stalls, and boat trips run out to Duiker Island, a rock covered in noisy Cape fur seals. Behind the village rise the sharp peaks of the Twelve Apostles and the Sentinel, a rock that looks like a sleeping giant.
The coast road from Hout Bay climbs onto the shoulder of the mountain and runs along cliffs high above the sea. Sea mist, called the Cape Doctor on the wind-blown days, rolls over the ridges, and the temperature can drop ten degrees in minutes. Around here, the mountain slopes carry fynbos with proteas and ericas, and in spring the hillsides are covered with colour. Dassies, the rock hyraxes, sun themselves on the stone walls.
This stop belongs to a ride that includes Du Toitskloof, the pass over the mountains east of Paarl, on the route to the interior. The old road over the top winds through granite and fynbos in tight curves, while the modern N1 now passes beneath in a long tunnel, and riders can choose between the two. Here, on the peninsula, the riding is different, with cliff roads, tunnels and sea views. Traffic is heavy on sunny weekends, and parking at viewpoints is hard to find. Strong south-easterly winds in summer can be dangerous on exposed sections, so check the forecast and be ready to turn back.
Practically, Hout Bay has fuel stations, supermarkets and a good selection of restaurants and cafes, many by the harbour, with fresh fish and chips, calamari and crayfish in season. There is also a weekend craft market. Constantia, a short way over the ridge, has more shops and wine estates. For a short break, the beach has a long sweep of white sand and cold, clear water. Parking is limited near the harbour on weekends, and security is wise, so never leave anything on the bike.