At the northern tip of the Lac du Bourget, the largest natural lake entirely in France, the shore curves into a shallow bay below the village of Châtillon and its castle. In the shallows, divers and archaeologists have found the remains of prehistoric lake villages, and the Baie de Châtillon is one of the French sites included in the UNESCO listing of prehistoric pile dwellings around the Alps. The castle, perched on a rocky hill above the bay, was the seat of local lords in the Middle Ages and has a commanding view over the lake.
The lake is long and deep, framed by mountains: the Mont du Chat and the Dent du Chat to the west, the Bauges massif to the east. On the western shore stands the Abbaye d'Hautecombe, the burial place of the princes of the House of Savoy, its neo-Gothic church reflected in the water. Aix-les-Bains, at the southern end, is an old spa town with grand hotels from the Belle Époque, and the lake inspired the poet Lamartine, whose poem Le Lac, a meditation on love and time, was written here. The Canal de Savières links the lake to the Rhône at Chanaz, a pretty village with boats.
The riding is superb. The road along the eastern shore is pleasant, and the roads climbing into the mountains around the lake are excellent. The Col du Chat crosses the ridge west of the lake with curves and views, and further north, the Grand Colombier, one of the toughest climbs in the Tour de France, rises to over fifteen hundred metres, with steep hairpins and views of Mont Blanc on clear days. The surface is generally good, but there are cyclists in large numbers on the climbs. Summer is warm, and the high roads close in winter.
Châtillon and Chindrieux are small villages; for fuel and supplies, head to Albens, Rumilly or Aix-les-Bains. Savoyard food is mountain fare: tartiflette, fondue, diots, local sausages, cooked in white wine, and lake fish such as lavaret. The wines of Savoie, including the crisp whites from Chignin and Jongieux, are refreshing. Stop by the bay, look across the lake toward the mountains, and think of the prehistoric villagers who chose this spot: they had good taste in views.