Mount Carmel rises straight from the sea at Haifa, and on its northern slope a staircase of nineteen terraces of gardens, lawns and fountains climbs from the German Colony to the ridge, with the golden-domed Shrine of the Báb in the middle of it all. The Báb, a young merchant from Shiraz, proclaimed in 1844 that a new messenger of God would come, and he was executed in Tabriz in 1850. His remains were hidden and finally brought to Haifa and placed in a tomb on the slope, with the first building completed in 1909 and the present octagon with its dome of gold tiles finished in 1953. The terraces were completed in 2001. The gardens and the shrine, together with the sites at Bahji near Akko, make up the Baha'i Holy Places in Haifa and the Western Galilee, listed by UNESCO in 2008.
The gardens are among the most carefully kept in the world, with clipped hedges, lawn terraces, cypress trees and paths of pale stone, all tended by volunteers. From the upper terrace you look down a long axis of steps and flowerbeds to the German Colony and the sea, with Haifa's port and bay opening beyond. Visitors can walk through parts of the gardens free of charge, and guided tours go to the terraces and, at set hours, into the shrine, with respectful dress and quiet behaviour expected. Opening times and the arrangements for entry change, so check the official schedule.
Riding in Haifa means hills. The city climbs the side of Mount Carmel in steep streets and tight bends, with traffic to match, and the Carmelit, a small underground funicular, runs from the port to the top. Drive carefully on the Yefe Nof road along the ridge, which has views across the bay to Akko, and expect heavy rush-hour congestion. Parking near the lower gate is limited, and a motorcycle is easier to place than a car. The Mediterranean climate is hot and humid in summer, mild in winter, with rain between November and March.
Haifa has about a quarter of a million people, so fuel and services are plentiful. The German Colony, a street of Templer houses from the nineteenth century, is full of cafes and restaurants, and the nearby Wadi Nisnas quarter has Arab bakeries and falafel stalls. Try hummus and fresh pita for lunch, and a glass of lemon-and-mint cooler. Akko, about twenty-five kilometres north, has its Crusader harbour and is a fine day trip.