Baeza is a town of honey-coloured stone set on a ridge above a sea of olive trees. From its edge, the view drops over the Guadalquivir valley to the dark line of the Sierra Mágina, and in every direction the hills are covered with orderly rows of olives, millions of them, the source of more olive oil than almost anywhere on earth. The town's Renaissance palaces, churches and squares, together with those of neighbouring Úbeda, make up a World Heritage site.
In the sixteenth century, Baeza and Úbeda were wealthy towns, and their nobles and clergy hired some of the best architects of the Spanish Renaissance to build palaces, churches and public buildings in the new Italian style. In Baeza, the Plaza del Pópulo with its Lions' Fountain, the cathedral, the old university and the Jabalquinto Palace, with its extravagant Gothic façade studded with stone points, are highlights. The poet Antonio Machado taught French here for several years in the early twentieth century, and his classroom in the old university has been preserved.
The riding around Baeza is excellent. The roads through the olive groves are winding and hilly, with good surfaces and little traffic. Head south towards the Sierra Mágina, or east towards Cazorla, where the roads climb into the mountains of the Sierra de Cazorla, Segura y Las Villas Natural Park, the largest protected area in Spain. These are great motorcycling roads, with tight bends, steep climbs and spectacular views. Summer is very hot, so ride early or late in the day. Spring and autumn are ideal.
The olive harvest takes place from November to January, and the whole region is busy with workers, tractors and mills. Many mills offer tastings and tours, and the oil is excellent, especially the early harvest oils with their green, peppery taste. In the evening, the stone of Baeza glows golden in the sunset, and the narrow streets are pleasant to wander.
Baeza has fuel, restaurants and accommodation. Úbeda, a few kilometres east, is larger and equally beautiful. In the bars, tapas are often free with a drink, and you should try local specialities like andrajos, a stew of flatbread and hare, or simply bread dipped in fresh olive oil.