Bad Bergzabern lies close to the French border, at the point where the German Wine Route runs out of road and the hills of the southern Palatinate fold into the Vosges across the frontier. It is a spa town of about seven and a half thousand people, with a castle that once belonged to the Dukes of Zweibrücken, a Renaissance inn called the Gasthaus zum Engel, with an ornate carved facade dating from the sixteenth century, and a calm, tidy centre built around a market square. The Palatinate Forest, a large area of woodland, begins just behind it.
The region has a mild climate, with warmth that allows figs, almonds and chestnuts to grow, and the Palatinate is often described as Germany's Tuscany. In late winter and early spring, the almond trees bloom along the foot of the hills, giving the landscape a soft pink glow that draws visitors from across the region, and in autumn the chestnut harvest is celebrated with local dishes. The town's spa tradition comes from mineral springs, and the thermal baths are a relaxing way to spend an afternoon after a long ride.
A few kilometres away, the village of Dörrenbach has a Renaissance town hall and a fortified church, and is considered one of the prettiest villages in the Palatinate. Oberotterbach, another wine village, has good estates and pleasant lanes. Roads between them wind through vineyards and chestnut woods, with gentle bends and almost no traffic. The surface is generally good, though some small roads are narrow and rough, and farm vehicles are common during the harvest. For more of a challenge, head into the forest, where roads climb to hilltop castles such as the Berwartstein in a series of tighter bends.
With a population of over seven thousand, Bad Bergzabern has fuel, supermarkets and many places to eat, so it is a sensible stop before you tackle the more remote roads. Regional cooking is hearty, with Saumagen, a stuffed pig's stomach, the dish that made the Palatinate famous, and Flammkuchen, a thin crust with onions and bacon, both pair well with local white wines. Wine is often served in a large half-litre glass called a Dubbeglas.
The best times are early spring for the almond blossom and autumn for the harvest. In summer the heat can be strong, and a rest in the shade is welcome.