The Wachau is a stretch of the Danube between Melk and Krems where the river runs through a gorge, with terraced vineyards on the slopes and small towns of white walls and baroque towers beside the water. UNESCO listed the cultural landscape in 2000, and it is one of the most beautiful stretches of the river. Bacharnsdorf is a tiny village near Spitz, the town at the heart of the valley, and Weissenkirchen is only a few minutes away.
Here, on a hillside above the river, stood a Roman watchtower. The Danube was the northern frontier of the Roman Empire for several centuries, and a chain of forts, towers and camps stretched along the south bank to watch for movement on the far side. The remains of this line, known as the Danube Limes, were listed by UNESCO in 2021. The watchtower at Bacharnsdorf is a small piece of that system, a place where soldiers kept an eye on the river and signalled to neighbours in the case of trouble.
The Wachau is famous for apricots, called Marillen, and in spring the orchards bloom white and pink. You will find apricot jam, schnapps, dumplings and cakes in nearly every cafe. The wine is excellent, especially the Gruner Veltliner and Riesling grown on the terraces, and the local winemakers serve their own wine in taverns called Heurigen, identified by a bundle of branches over the door. A modest lunch at one of them, with the river in view, is a very good way to spend an hour.
The riding is easy. The B3 follows the river through the valley, with the water on one side and vineyards on the other, and it is narrow in places, so traffic builds on sunny weekends. A small ferry crosses at Spitz, and a ride on the far bank is quieter. Fuel is thin in the valley, so fill up at Krems or Melk before you start. Autumn is the best season, when the vineyards turn gold and red and the light is soft. Spring offers apricot blossom, and midsummer is hot and busy.