Azau is where the road ends and the cable cars begin. It is a wide, rocky glade at the head of the Baksan Valley, at about 2,350 metres, where the river is still a trickle of grey meltwater and the slopes of Elbrus rise straight from the car park. From here, the main lift system climbs in stages to the high shoulder of the mountain: first a gondola, then a second and a chairlift, reaching the Garabashi station at around 3,800 metres, from which climbers set off for the summit. The towers and cables vanish into cloud on bad days, and on good days, the white dome above you looks near enough to touch.
The mountain is a dormant volcano, the highest in Europe at 5,642 metres on the western summit, with the eastern top a little lower. It is covered with glaciers that feed the Baksan, and every year, the ice retreats a little more. Climbers come from all over the world for a relatively straightforward but serious ascent, and the weather can turn deadly with little warning. For a visitor on a motorcycle, the lift is the more sensible way to see it: a ride to the middle station gives a view across the valley, and a cup of tea at altitude is its own reward. Pay attention to the cold, because the temperature drops quickly, and the wind can be savage.
Azau is also the site of a mineral spring, the Narzan glade, where fizzy water rises from the ground and stains the stones rusty orange. Locals drink it, and it has a sharp, iron taste. Stalls sell woollen hats, socks and souvenirs, and cafés offer hot soup, shashlik and tea, though the prices are those of a resort. In winter, the whole area is ski slopes.
The riding up to Azau is the last stretch of the Baksan road, climbing from Terskol in a few steady bends, with the mountain ahead. The surface is generally good, but expect frost damage, rockfalls after rain, and a lot of tourist traffic in July and August, with minibuses and taxis. Start early, because afternoon cloud and thunderstorms are common. The best window is from late June to September, when the lifts run and the roads are clear.
Parking is limited and busy, so arrive before the crowds. Fill up there and carry what you need. Stand with your back to the car park and look up. Few places give you such a sense of height without effort.