Ayios Ionannis here means the monastery of Saint John Lambadistis, at Kalopanagiotis, a village in the Marathasa valley on the northern side of the Troodos mountains. It is a strange and lovely building, three churches joined together under one big wooden roof, each added in a different century, so that stepping from one to the next is like walking through the history of Cypriot painting. Frescoes cover nearly every wall, from the Byzantine saints of the twelfth century to the more elaborate cycles of the fifteenth, in colours that glow in the dim light. It is one of the painted churches of the Troodos, listed by UNESCO in 1985.
The village itself is a bonus. Kalopanagiotis sits beside a stream among plane trees and orchards, and it has sulphur springs that have been used for healing since the Middle Ages, with a small spa in the old style. In summer people come from the coast for cool air, and in the cafes on the main street they sell sweet preserves of fruit and nuts, called glyka tou koutaliou. Kakopetria, a bigger village further down the valley, is full of old stone houses and also has a painted church of its own.
The riding in the Marathasa valley is among the best on the island. The road follows the river upstream from the plain through terraces of cherry and apple, with sharp bends, long climbs and views of dark, forested ridges. Surfaces are generally good, though shaded stretches can stay damp, and in autumn fallen leaves make corners slick. Weekend traffic includes cyclists and tourists, so go early. Leave time for a lunch of grilled halloumi, lamb baked in a clay oven and fresh bread in a village taverna.
Fuel in the valley is limited, so fill the tank before you leave the larger towns, such as Limassol or Nicosia, though a small pump may exist in a bigger village. Spring brings blossom, and summers are warm in the day and cool at night, with the high ground often fresher than the coast by ten degrees. Winter brings snow and closures on the highest roads, but the valley is usually open, and the smoky smell of village fires gives the air a welcome richness.