Somewhere in the middle of the Avenue of the Giants, around Redcrest and Holmes Flat, the road passes through a series of small communities that have survived floods, fires and the decline of the timber industry.
The Eel River is beautiful but dangerous. In December 1964, a huge flood, caused by heavy rain on melting snow, swept down the river and destroyed much of what stood in its path. The towns of Pepperwood and Weott were largely wiped out, and the water rose to extraordinary heights. In Weott, a pole marks the high-water level, far above the heads of visitors. The flood also caused damage to the redwoods, though many survived.
The groves along this section of the avenue are dense and impressive, with some of the largest trees in the park. Stop at one of the many turnouts and walk a short trail into the forest. The ground is soft underfoot, and the trees rise straight up, their bark furrowed and reddish-brown. In the spring the forest floor is covered with trillium and redwood sorrel.
The riding is gentle and pleasant, with long curves and low speed limits. The road is narrow, with little room for overtaking, and the surface can be uneven where tree roots have pushed up the asphalt. Watch out for fallen branches and debris after storms, and for wet patches where water drips from the canopy. The best time to ride is early morning or late afternoon, when the light is low and the traffic is light.
There are few services along this stretch, with only a small store or café in some of the communities. The visitor centre in Weott, a little to the south, has information and exhibits about the redwoods and the history of the area. Fuel is best found in Fortuna to the north, about thirty-five kilometres away, or in Garberville to the south.