Auxerre is best seen first from the bridge over the Yonne. The old town climbs the west bank in a jumble of rooftops, crowned by the Gothic cathedral of Saint-Étienne and the abbey of Saint-Germain, with the river sliding past below. It is one of the classic views of Burgundy, and it sets the tone for a town that wears its history lightly.
The abbey of Saint-Germain is particularly remarkable. Beneath it lies a Carolingian crypt with wall paintings that are among the oldest surviving in France, some dating back to the ninth century. The cathedral has fine stained glass and a crypt of its own. In the streets of the old town you will find half-timbered houses, a clock tower with an astronomical dial and plenty of small squares where cafés set out their tables. Auxerre also has a solid football tradition, thanks to AJ Auxerre and the long reign of its coach Guy Roux, which still comes up in local conversation.
For lunch, Auxerre is a good place to try classic Burgundian cooking: eggs poached in red wine sauce, known as oeufs en meurette, cheesy gougères, jambon persillé and, of course, wine. The vineyards of Chablis lie only about twenty kilometres to the east, and many restaurants serve the crisp local whites. If you are riding on, you will want to go easy, but a glass with lunch is part of the culture.
The riding around Auxerre is varied and rewarding. To the east, the roads into Chablis country climb over limestone hills striped with vines, with long views and gentle curves. To the south, the Yonne valley and the Canal du Nivernais offer pleasant riverside roads, and further on the hills of the Morvan begin, with forests and more challenging bends. Auxerre has everything you might need in terms of fuel and services. Spring and autumn are especially lovely here, with mild temperatures and the vineyards changing colour, while summer can be hot but is softened by the river.