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CURVESCOUT / PLACE TO SEE

Austin

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Austin sits where the flat Texas blackland prairie meets the limestone Hill Country, and that line, the Balcones Escarpment, is the reason the city is a good place to start a ride. West of downtown the land rises suddenly into oak and juniper hills cut by creeks, with the Colorado River, dammed into the long Lake Austin and Lake Travis, curling between them. The city grew here in the nineteenth century as the capital of the Republic of Texas, and the pink granite Capitol, which is taller than the one in Washington, still dominates the skyline.

Getting out takes some patience. The first stretch through Rollingwood, West Lake Hills and the western suburbs is stop-and-go on weekday afternoons, with a lot of traffic lights and a lot of cars. Once you cross into the hills, the road becomes much better, with real curves, elevation changes and wide views over the lakes. The famous Hill Country roads such as the Ranch Roads, numbered in the hundreds, rise and fall over limestone ridges and dip through low-water crossings. Watch out for gravel on the apex, deer at dawn and dusk, and a good deal of cyclists on weekends. Spring is spectacular because the bluebonnets and other wildflowers come out in April, while summer is brutally hot, often above thirty-five degrees, so go early.

Austin has plenty of character to enjoy before leaving or after returning. Live music is everywhere, and the city proudly calls itself the live music capital of the world, with venues along Sixth Street and South Congress. Food means barbecue, in the Central Texas style: brisket smoked slowly over oak and served on butcher paper, usually with white bread and pickles, and queues for the best places can be long. Breakfast tacos are a daily ritual. The Congress Avenue bridge also holds a very large colony of Mexican free-tailed bats, which stream out at dusk in the warm months, a fine free show.

As for practical matters, Austin is a large city with fuel and repair shops on every corner, so there is no need to worry. Do remember to fill up before heading deep into the Hill Country, where small towns like Willow City have little. Carry plenty of water in summer, and plan around rush hour.

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