The Aursjøvegen starts where the tarmac gets thin, and nobody has ever complained about that. It climbs out of the Sunndalen valley in a series of stone-lined hairpins, over bare mountainside and into a country of dammed lakes and wide views, with the peaks of Trollheimen and Dovrefjell on either side. Aursjøen itself is a reservoir, a long strip of dark water held by a dam, and the landscape around it has the stern, open quality of Norway's highest ground.
This part of the road lies close to the lake, with the surface a mix of old asphalt, gravel and patched sections that keep you honest. It is a mountain road in the proper sense, narrow and sometimes steep, with sheep on the surface and drainage ditches that can bite a front wheel. Speeds are low and the scenery repays slow progress, with long views across the plateau and the occasional glimpse of snow even in midsummer.
The road itself was built to serve the hydropower works in the mountains, and it is a reminder that much of Norwegian wealth rests on water falling from a height. Today it is a seasonal tourist road and usually requires a toll, opening in early summer once the snow has cleared and closing again in autumn. Dates vary from year to year, so look at the current information before you go.
Nature is a feature of this ride. The area borders the Dovrefjell national park, where musk oxen roam on the high ground, and the air is thin and cold even in July. Reindeer move over the plateau, and dwarf birch, lichens and mosses cover the stones. On a clear day the light is so strong that every rock throws a hard shadow.
There are no towns on the plateau, so carry water and snacks, and dress for conditions that can change fast. Åndalsnes lies far to the west, and Sunndalsøra, in the valley below, is the bigger centre for supplies. Start early and choose a dry day.