Atami is a hot spring resort built on a steep hillside above Sagami Bay, with streets that tumble toward the sea and hotels stacked on the slopes like steps. Forty thousand people live here, and it has been a resort since the Edo period, when shoguns had hot spring water carried to Edo for bathing. In the twentieth century it became a honeymoon destination, and the town still has a faded, nostalgic charm, with old inns, souvenir shops and a long seafront promenade.
The coastline here is pretty, with a curve of beach, a small harbour and the rocky shore of the Izu peninsula to the south. Atami Castle, a reconstruction built in the 1950s, sits on the hill above the town, and the views from the top are good, taking in the bay and, on clear days, Hatsushima island offshore. The MOA Museum of Art, up the slope, has a fine collection of Japanese art and gardens. Fireworks displays are held here on many evenings through the year, a tradition that is unusual elsewhere in Japan.
Seafood is the star of the table. Fresh fish, caught in the bay, is served in countless small restaurants and at the morning market near the harbour, with horse mackerel, squid and shrimp on the menu. Atami is also known for dried fish, grilled and eaten with rice and miso soup. After a morning in the saddle, a plate of sashimi and a bowl of rice is exactly what is needed.
For riders, Atami is the start of the Izu coast road, Route 135, which runs south along the shore with sea views the whole way. It is a pleasant, easygoing ride, with gentle curves and small fishing villages, though it can be busy on weekends. The Izu Skyline, a toll road along the ridge above, offers a very different experience, with high views and quiet air. Fuel is easy in Atami, which has plenty of stations, and the nearest bigger towns are Yugawara and Ito. Parking in the town centre is awkward because of the slopes, so look for the designated places.