Asuka-dera is where Japanese Buddhism first took root in earnest. The temple was started in the late sixth century by Soga no Umako, the most powerful minister of his day, as the first full-scale Buddhist temple in the country, built with the help of craftsmen sent from the Korean kingdom of Baekje. Tile makers, bronze casters and architects crossed the sea, and the layout they used, with a pagoda surrounded by three golden halls, was a new thing on these islands, where until then the gods had been honoured in groves and simple shrines.
What you can see today is a modest hall, rebuilt in the nineteenth century, sheltering a huge seated bronze Buddha, known as the Asuka Daibutsu, cast in the early seventh century by the sculptor Tori Busshi. It is the oldest surviving large Buddhist image in Japan, and the face has an archaic, smiling quality, with almond eyes and a gentle expression that reflect continental styles of the time. The statue has been damaged by fire and repaired, and some parts are later, but the core is original. Photography inside is generally not allowed, and a small entrance fee is charged.
In front of the temple stands a stone memorial to Soga no Iruka, who was killed in 645, and not far away is a small monument that marks the spot where, according to tradition, his severed head came to rest. The history of Asuka was violent and political as well as religious.
On the road, expect a cheerful, slow experience. The lanes of Asuka are narrow and quiet, often with rental bicycles and walkers, and the temple lies in the middle of the village, with a few shops, cafés and tea houses opposite. The ride into the village from Sakurai takes only ten minutes, and you will find fuel, convenience stores and restaurants there, as well as in Kashihara. It is easy to combine this site with the other places in the area, such as the stone monuments, the water clock site and the great tomb of Ishibutai.
Spring and autumn are the best seasons. In summer, the heat is heavy, and in the rainy season the lanes are slippery with leaves and mud. Early morning light is particularly good for photographs of the temple gate. A bowl of noodles or a rice ball with pickles from a village shop makes a simple lunch.