Astana is a capital city that was assembled in the middle of the steppe by decision. It was Akmola, then Tselinograd in the Soviet era, then Akmola again, and became Kazakhstan's capital in 1997, when the government moved from Almaty. Since then, it has been transformed by a huge construction programme, with futuristic towers and bold architecture rising above the flat plain. The name changed to Nur-Sultan in 2019 and back to Astana in 2022, a bit of political confusion that you may see reflected on older signs and maps.
The skyline is a mix of showpieces. The Baiterek tower, a golden orb on a white stem, symbolises a mythical tree of life; the Khan Shatyr, a giant transparent tent designed by Norman Foster, houses shops and even an indoor beach; and the Palace of Peace and Reconciliation is a glass pyramid. The Ishim river curves through town, with promenades along its banks. It is a city best seen at dusk, when the lights come on and the boulevards fill with families. It is also one of the coldest capitals in the world, with winter temperatures that can reach thirty below.
The riding is flat, wide and fast. Roads leaving the city head across an endless, windy steppe, and in summer the heat is dry and the grass turns gold. Highways are generally decent, with long straight sections and speed cameras, and driving styles can be bold. Spring and autumn are short; summer is the best time for a motorcycle, and winter is out of the question for most riders. The wind across the plain is constant, so expect to lean into it.
As a stop, Astana is as well served as any capital. Fuel, dealerships, repair shops, banks, hotels and restaurants are easy to find, and the food scene offers everything from traditional Kazakh dishes to Italian and Korean. Plan an evening to wander the river embankment and the central avenue, and eat well before the long northbound road. It is the best place on this route to fix a problem or find a part, so take advantage of it.