Aspen was a silver town before it was a ski town, and the old buildings still show it. In the 1880s, miners poured into the Roaring Fork Valley after rich veins of silver were found in the hills, and the little camp became one of the biggest producers in the country in only a few years. The Hotel Jerome opened in 1889, and the streets filled with banks, opera houses and saloons. When the silver price crashed in 1893, the town went quiet for half a century, until skiers arrived after the Second World War and turned it into a resort.
Today Aspen has fewer than seven thousand year-round residents and a reputation as one of the most expensive towns in America. Boutiques and galleries sit alongside old brick buildings, and private jets fill the little airport. But the setting is genuinely lovely, with four ski mountains, dense stands of aspen trees, and the high peaks rising on all sides, among them the Maroon Bells, two perfectly shaped summits that are often called the most photographed mountains in Colorado. Hunter S. Thompson lived at nearby Woody Creek, and his shadow hangs over the local bars.
Out of town, the ride heads up the valley toward Independence Pass, which crosses the Continental Divide at over twelve thousand feet on a narrow, winding highway, with sharp curves, steep drop-offs and few guardrails. It is a spectacular road, and in summer the wildflowers on the high tundra are magnificent. The pass is closed in winter, usually from November until Memorial Day or later, and large vehicles are not permitted on the narrowest section. Afternoon thunderstorms are common, so make an early start, and take care on the descent.
Aspen has everything, from fuel stations to supermarkets, restaurants and bike shops, so take care of the basics before you go. Prices are high, so if you are on a budget, shop in Basalt or Glenwood Springs down the valley. In autumn, in late September, the aspen groves turn a vivid gold, and the road is crowded with photographers. Be considerate of other road users, and remember that the air up high is thin and cold, so layers and gloves are a good idea even in July.