Aschau im Chiemgau lies at the mouth of the Prien valley, where the river leaves the mountains for the plain, and it has the best view of the Kampenwand, the jagged limestone ridge that stands over the Chiemsee region. The summit reaches about 1,670 metres, and a cable car from the village takes walkers to the top. Seen from the road at the right time, with low sun on the pale cliffs and shadows in the gullies, it is a classic Bavarian skyline. The village has about five thousand people, a few shops and a petrol station, with Frasdorf, three thousand people, just along the road.
Above the village stands Hohenaschau Castle, a large and imposing building that was long the seat of the lords of the valley, and is today used as a holiday home. The village itself is known in German foodie circles for its fine dining, though a rider in leathers will be just as happy with a plate of dumplings in a Gasthof. The valley road, which continues south through Sachrang to the Austrian border, is a very pleasant ride with soft bends, forest, and a stream beside it, and it is far quieter than the road to Kufstein.
Weather in the foothills changes quickly. A clear morning can turn to cloud by noon, and the Kampenwand then disappears, so take the photograph when you have it. In the spring, when the snow lies on the upper slopes and the meadows below are bright green, the contrast is striking. Autumn is also good, with the larches turning and the air clear after a cold front.
The pastures near Aschau are grazed by cows with big bells, and farmers sell cheese and bacon at the gate. If you stop for a snack, make it something local: a Brotzeit plate, with bread, cheese and cold meat, is a reliable meal. Fuel is not an issue in the village, but on the road south toward the mountain valleys there is nothing, so fill the tank if you are heading toward Austria. The road is open year round, but snow can close side routes in winter.