Ásbyrgi is a horseshoe-shaped canyon in the north-east of Iceland, about three and a half kilometres long and a kilometre wide, with vertical cliffs of around a hundred metres on three sides. The old story says it was made when Sleipnir, the eight-legged horse of Odin, put one hoof down on the earth, and from the air the shape does look like an enormous print. The scientific explanation is just as dramatic: catastrophic floods from the glacial river Jökulsá á Fjöllum carved it out in the aftermath of eruptions beneath the ice, in at least two huge episodes long before anyone lived here.
The floor of the canyon is a surprise. After the bleak lava plains and moorland you cross to get here, you step into a sheltered forest of birch, willow and spruce, with ferns and wild flowers underfoot and a small pond at the back, edged by dark cliffs. There is a campsite, a visitor centre and well-marked paths, and the rock island in the middle, called Eyjan, divides the canyon into two. Fulmars nest on the cliffs, and the air is full of birdsong in early summer. It is part of Vatnajökull National Park and the whole place feels protected, hushed and green.
The riding to get here is typical north Iceland. Route 85 is paved, with long straights, wide views and few turns, and you are often alone on the road for several minutes at a time. Crosswinds can be strong, especially along the coast, and the weather changes quickly, with fog and drizzle common even in July. A windproof layer is not optional. Gravel appears where tarmac ends, and loose stone can catch you out if you are going too fast.
Fuel is the main thing to plan. Services are sparse in this part of the country, and the larger town in the data is Húsavík, about thirty-eight kilometres away, which has pumps, shops and restaurants and is known for whale watching. Some small stations and a campsite shop may be open near the canyon in season, but you should not rely on them. Fill up in Húsavík or at the next village, and carry cash or a card with a chip and a PIN, since many pumps are unmanned.
Summer, from June to August, is the sensible time to come, with long days and open roads. In winter, many of the minor roads close.