Al-Ahsa is the biggest natural oasis on the planet, and it looks like a mistake in the middle of the Eastern Province: a dark green carpet of date palms, millions of them, spread across a flat plain of pale desert. The oasis exists because springs rise from deep underground and water the whole area. Hofuf, the main city, and Mubarraz, its neighbour, sit within the palms, and the two together hold close to six hundred thousand people. UNESCO listed the oasis in 2018.
People have lived here for thousands of years. The springs made it a stop on trade routes between the Gulf coast, central Arabia and Mesopotamia, and over the centuries different powers fought over it, among them the Ottomans, who left a fortress in Hofuf. The Qaisariyah market, with its covered lanes, sells spices, dates, brass and gold, and the old Jawatha mosque is said to be among the earliest mosques in the eastern part of the Arabian Peninsula. The oasis is also known for its sheep, its woven bisht cloaks and its dates, which come in dozens of varieties and are served with coffee in every house.
Al-Oyun means the springs, and the village that bears the name sits in the northern part of the oasis, close to Lake Al-Asfar, a shallow lake that fills in winter and draws flamingos and other water birds. In the palm groves, channels carry water in a pattern that is centuries old, and walking beside them in the shade is a cool contrast to the heat outside. The smell of wet earth and date fronds is surprisingly strong.
For the rider this is long, straight highway riding with very little elevation. The roads are good, the speed limits are enforced by cameras, and the traffic can be fast and unpredictable. Summer heat is severe, with temperatures well above forty degrees, so go in winter, from November to March, or at dawn and dusk. Fuel is cheap and easy in Hofuf and Mubarraz, and the cafes are plentiful, with strong coffee and dates. Be aware that riding rules and dress customs are different from Europe, and that riders should check the current local regulations before travelling.