South of the Citadel, in the part of Cairo that visitors often skip, lies the Southern Cemetery, a huge area of tombs, mausolea and mosques that has served the city for more than a thousand years. People live here, too, in houses built among the graves, and the area has the feel of a quiet neighbourhood where the dead are simply the oldest residents. The larger complex is often called the City of the Dead, though the name hardly does justice to its busy shops, schoolchildren and washing lines.
Sayyida Nafisa was a great-granddaughter of Hasan, the grandson of the Prophet, and she settled in Egypt in the early ninth century, where she became famous for her piety and learning. She died in 824, and her tomb became a place of pilgrimage that has never stopped drawing visitors. The mosque that stands today was largely rebuilt in later centuries, and it is a busy place on Fridays, when families come to pray and sit in the courtyard. Imam al-Shafi'i, the founder of one of the four main schools of Sunni law, who was a friend of hers, is buried not far away in a famous mausoleum with a wooden boat on top of its dome.
For a motorcyclist, this is an area to approach with caution and respect. The roads are crowded and often rough, with stray animals, children playing and carts, and the traffic pattern is unpredictable. The area around the shrine can be extremely crowded on religious occasions, and photography should be done discreetly, with permission where people are visible. Dress modestly, and ask before entering mosques. The people are generally friendly, and a polite greeting goes a long way.
Fuel and services are available on the main roads toward the Citadel and the Nile, and small cafes serve tea and simple food. The best time to visit is in the morning, before the heat, when the light is soft on the domes and the streets are calm. In summer the heat can be severe, so carry water and take breaks in the shade. The air smells of incense, dust and frying bread. In the evening the lights of the Citadel glow in the distance, and the place has an unforced, human warmth that the grand monuments sometimes lack.