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Artybash

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Artybash is a village at the northern end of Lake Teletskoye, where the lake narrows and drains into the Biya river, and its position gives it one of the best views in the Altai. The lake stretches southward between steep, forested mountains for about eighty kilometres, deep, cold and astonishingly clear. In places it is over three hundred metres deep, and the water is so pure that you can see rocks many metres below the surface. The Altai people call it Altyn-Kol, the golden lake.

More than seventy rivers and streams flow into Teletskoye, and only one flows out, the Biya, which later joins the Katun to form the great Ob. The mountains rising from the water are covered in cedar, fir and birch, and the wall of the valley is cut by waterfalls that tumble straight into the lake. The best known of them, the Korbu, can be reached by boat from Artybash, with a short walk through the forest at the end. The lake is part of the Altai Nature Reserve and the Golden Mountains of Altai World Heritage Site.

Artybash itself is a quiet resort village of wooden houses, small guesthouses and a lakeside promenade. In summer, boats run up the lake, and visitors take excursions to waterfalls and remote beaches. The lakeshore holds small cafés selling smoked fish and berries, and the sunsets are dramatic, with light turning the water to gold. The village is at the head of the lake, so there is no through road down the shore, and the long southern part can only be reached by boat or on foot.

For riders, the road to Artybash follows the Biya river through the foothills, running along gentle curves with views of forest and distant ridges. The surface is generally decent, though it can be rough in places, and there are livestock and wildlife to watch for. In summer, tourist traffic makes the road busier, and weekends can be crowded.

The village has a few shops and small stations, but fuel can be limited, and it is wise to fill up in Gorno-Altaysk or Turochak before arriving. The weather changes quickly, with cold mornings and warm afternoons, and thunderstorms in summer. The best months are June to September, and early autumn brings brilliant colour.

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