Arsenyev is named after Vladimir Arsenyev, the explorer and writer who mapped much of the Russian Far East in the early twentieth century and whose book about his guide Dersu Uzala became a classic, later filmed by Akira Kurosawa. The town of fifty-eight thousand sits on the Daubikhe River at the western edge of the Sikhote-Alin mountains, in Primorsky Krai, and it is the natural stop before the climb into the range. Grazhdanka, a small village, lies nearby.
The town itself is practical, with a helicopter factory as its main employer, so do not be surprised if you hear rotors overhead. For riders it is a place to refuel, eat and sleep. Fuel stations are on the main road, there are guesthouses and cafes, and you can find basic mechanics. The road from Ussuriysk runs north through hilly country, with a decent surface and long, easy bends, and the forest closes in as you approach. From Arsenyev the road climbs into the Sikhote-Alin, with more twists, patchy surface in places and fewer services, so fill the tank and carry water.
The Sikhote-Alin is one of the great forest ranges of Asia, and the mixture of species is remarkable. Siberian and subtropical plants meet here, so spruce and cedar grow alongside oak, lianas and Manchurian walnut, and the animals include the Amur tiger, the Amur leopard further south, brown and Asiatic black bears, and sika deer. You will not see tigers from the saddle, but the sense that they are somewhere in the forest changes how you ride. Autumn is lovely, with red and gold slopes, and spring brings a bright, damp green.
Arsenyev's story is a good one to carry with you. The explorer travelled by foot, boat and horse through this country with Nanai and Udege guides, recording the landscape, the peoples and the animals, and his writing remains the best portrait of the region. The little museum in town is devoted to his work, and is worth a visit if open.
Bring warm and waterproof layers, since the weather in the mountains can turn wet and cold at short notice. Ticks are common in spring and early summer, and mosquitoes in midsummer, so pack repellent.