Few passes in the Alps have a better claim to being a true divide, because the Arlberg is where the water decides its direction. Rain falling on the western side flows into the Rhine and from there to the North Sea, while on the eastern side it joins the Inn and the Danube and ends in the Black Sea. At 1,793 metres, the pass marks the border between Tyrol and Vorarlberg, and it has been crossed since the Middle Ages, though for centuries it was a difficult and dangerous route.
Near the top, the little hamlet of St Christoph preserves an old story. In 1386, a man named Heinrich Findelkind founded a hospice here for travellers lost in the snow, and the brotherhood he started, the St Christoph Brotherhood, still exists. The hospice rang a bell in bad weather to guide people through the storm. Today, the area is a quiet ski settlement, with a few hotels and a small church, and the monument to the hospice stands by the road.
Since the road tunnel opened in 1978, most traffic has gone under the mountain, and the old pass road is a quiet delight. It climbs from St Anton in a series of long bends, with good surface and clear views, past pastures and rocky slopes. On the western side, the road drops through woods toward Langen am Arlberg and Klösterle, and then to the Klostertal valley. Traffic is light, apart from cyclists, who are numerous in summer. Corners are generally easy, with the occasional tight turn, and the road is wide enough to be comfortable.
The pass is open all year, but winter is another matter. Snow and ice can close the road, and avalanche control may stop traffic for hours, so check conditions before heading out in the cold months. Even in summer, clouds can sweep in, and a mild day can turn cool and wet. The pass can be windy, and the high pastures have a chill that hints at the glaciers far above.
There are no big services at the summit, though the nearby hotels at St Christoph serve coffee and meals. For fuel, use St Anton, about three and a half kilometres away, or Landeck. Carry a layer, and enjoy the quiet.