Sometimes the best reason to stop is simply that it is hot. The Ardèche river just downstream of Vallon-Pont-d'Arc is a broad, shallow, clear stretch of water over pale stones, with small gravel beaches along the banks, and in summer it is the natural place to cool off. The label says swim window, and that is accurate: for an hour in the middle of the day, the heat of the gorge makes the river feel like a gift, and riders in boots and jackets quickly start thinking about paddling.
A few cautions are worth stating. The water is cold at first and the current is mild in normal conditions but changes with rainfall; the Ardèche is known for sudden rises after autumn storms in the Cévennes, which can turn a calm river into a dangerous one within hours. In summer, canoeists and kayakers fill the water, so keep clear of their line. Secure your kit before you go in, because a heap of helmet, jacket and bag on a beach is an obvious target, and ideally have someone stay with the bikes or leave your valuables locked away.
The landscape here is Mediterranean in feel, with holm oaks, scrub and the sharp smell of thyme and cistus on hot days. Cicadas make a constant noise, and the limestone walls change colour from white to gold as the light shifts. In the evenings the canoe traffic stops and the river is still, with swifts and martins feeding over the water. This is the time of day when the place feels most like itself.
The town is a minute away, so food and drink are easy: bakeries, small supermarkets, cafés with shade and, for the evening, simple restaurants serving local dishes. Ruoms, a short ride north, is the next sizeable village. If you need more fuel than a small station can provide, Bourg-Saint-Andéol is the larger town to the east. Take your time, because the riding home through the gorge is better with a cool head.