Hvammstangi is the small town on the western shore of the Miðfjörður that Icelanders treat as the start of the Arctic Coast Way, a long coastal route along the north of the country. It has around six hundred people, a harbour with working fishing boats and a shrimp-processing history, and a calm, practical atmosphere that makes a good first stop for a ride that gets wilder as it goes. There is fuel in town and a supermarket, and it is wise to use both before you set out, since the north is sparse.
The landscape nearby is the Vatnsnes peninsula, a thumb of land sticking out into the Húnaflói bay, famous for its seal colonies and a dramatic sea stack called Hvítserkur, which looks like a rock dragon drinking from the sea. The road around the peninsula is a mix of tarmac and gravel, and it is a rewarding if slow ride. Seals haul out on the beaches in summer, and there are viewpoints from which you can watch them without disturbing them; they are shy, so keep your distance and keep your engine noise down.
Iceland's Ring Road, Route 1, passes nearby on the way to Akureyri and the north, and it is generally well surfaced and straightforward, though wind is the real hazard. Gusts here can be strong enough to move a bike sideways, and crosswinds on exposed straights should be respected. Weather turns quickly even in summer, and a warm layer and waterproofs are essential. Riders from the continent are often surprised by how bare the country is: few trees, wide valleys and a horizon that feels immense.
The area has a farming tradition, with sheep and horses on every slope, and the Icelandic horse is a local speciality; they are small, sturdy and curious, and will often come over to the fence to look at you. If you need a coffee or a warm meal, Hvammstangi has a few simple places, and the local seal centre is a good way to learn about the animals. The light in summer lingers until after midnight, and a ride along the coast in the small hours has a beautiful, dreamlike quality.