Mount Olympus rises straight out of the plain behind Dion, and on a clear morning its snow-streaked summit seems close enough to touch. The ancient Macedonians built their most sacred city here, at the foot of the home of the gods, and the kings came to sacrifice to Zeus before going to war. Philip II celebrated victories here, and Alexander the Great is said to have held a great festival at Dion before setting out to conquer Persia. Walking among the ruins, you can see why they chose the place: water bubbles up everywhere, the plain is fertile, and the mountain looms like a living presence.
The archaeological park is unusually green and wet. Springs flood parts of the site, especially the sanctuary of Isis, where a statue of the goddess stands reflected in a pool among reeds, frogs and turtles. There are remains of a theatre, baths, villas with mosaics, a basilica and a city wall, and the stone-paved main street runs for hundreds of metres through the trees. The museum in the modern village holds statues and finds, including a remarkable ancient water organ. Allow at least two hours and bring mosquito repellent in summer.
The riding is the second reason to be here. From Litochoro, about nine kilometres south, a winding mountain road climbs into the Enipeas gorge toward Prionia, the trailhead for climbers heading up to the summit, with hairpins, sheer drops, pine and beech forest and constant views back down to the Aegean. Surfaces are mostly decent but watch for rockfalls, goats and cars driven by tired hikers. The road along the coast is busier and flatter, and the national motorway nearby has tolls. Olympus weather can change fast, with afternoon storms in summer and snow from late autumn.
Litochoro is the base for most visitors, with fuel, tavernas, cafés and lodging, and a lively square under the plane trees. Try local dishes like grilled meat, bean soups or fresh trout from the mountains. Dion itself has a couple of cafés, and the beaches of the Pierian coast are a short ride away if you fancy a swim after the ruins. For a classical touch, toast the gods with a glass of local wine from the nearby Rapsani vineyards.