Orange is a Provençal town of thirty thousand on the edge of the Rhône plain, and it has two of the finest Roman monuments in Europe. The first is the triumphal arch, standing on the old Via Agrippa at the northern entrance to the town, built in the time of Augustus and later dedicated to Tiberius. It is covered in carved reliefs of battles, naval trophies and captured Gauls, celebrating the victories of the legions, and despite two thousand years of wind and traffic, the carvings remain impressive. The second is the Roman theatre, with its stage wall still standing intact, more than a hundred metres long and over thirty high. Louis XIV is said to have called it the finest wall in his kingdom. In summer, the theatre hosts the Chorégies, an opera festival with performances under the stars. Both monuments were listed by UNESCO in 1981.
The town's name has a curious history. In the Middle Ages, Orange was an independent principality, and through inheritance it passed to the House of Nassau, which became the House of Orange-Nassau, the royal family of the Netherlands. The Dutch colour orange and the name of Orange in South Africa and America all trace back to this small town in Provence.
The riding around Orange is excellent. To the south, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, among its vineyards strewn with round stones, is a short ride away. To the east, the Dentelles de Montmirail, a jagged limestone ridge, and the villages of Gigondas, Vacqueyras and Séguret offer winding roads through vineyards. Further on, Mont Ventoux rises to over nineteen hundred metres, with a famous road to its bare summit. Beware of the mistral, the cold north wind that funnels down the Rhône valley, sometimes blowing hard for days; it can push a motorcycle across the road and makes exposed stretches tricky.
Summer is hot and crowded, especially in July during the festival season. Spring, with the vineyards greening and the poppies in the fields, and autumn, during the grape harvest, are the best times to visit.
Orange has fuel, garages and plenty of cafés and restaurants, especially around the theatre. Try the local wines, but save them for the evening, and look out for the Provençal markets that fill the squares on certain mornings.