Arachova clings to the southern slope of Mount Parnassus at about 950 metres, a stone-built mountain town in central Greece whose houses climb the hillside in steps, one roof beneath the next. It is a place of narrow lanes and steep stairs, with a clock tower on the rock above the main road and the whole of the Pleistos valley falling away below, silver with olive trees. Delphi lies only eight kilometres to the west, and Arachova has long served as the mountain-town companion to that ancient sanctuary.
It also has its own history. Arachova played a part in the Greek War of Independence in 1821, when fighters from the town joined the uprising, and the town's festival of Agios Georgios in April is one of the great days of the Greek year, with dancing, traditional costume and roast lamb. The locals are known for weaving, and the shops along the main street sell woollen rugs and bags next to bottles of local wine. They also sell formaella, a hard cheese that is grilled or fried, as well as local sausages and honey. Winter sees the town fill with Athenians heading to the ski resort higher on the mountain, and snow can fall here, so riders should be careful between December and March.
The main road, the one from Livadeia to Delphi, passes right along the town, and it is busy with tourist coaches and trucks in season. Traffic can be slow in the narrow main street, but the roads beyond it are a pleasure. The climb up from the Boeotian plain toward Arachova is a succession of bends through limestone hills, and the descent toward Delphi and Itea has big views over the Gulf of Corinth. The surface is mostly good, though it can be polished and slippery in the wet, and there is occasional loose grit on corners.
Because Arachova is a popular weekend destination, it is well supplied, with fuel at the roadside, a good choice of tavernas and cafes, and many places to sit with a coffee and watch the street go by. Sit on a terrace and order something grilled, with a glass of the local red.
The air at this height is crisp even in summer, and it smells of oregano, pine and woodsmoke. Aim for spring, when the hillsides are green and the poppies are out, or for autumn. In midsummer, the days are hot and the evenings are mild.