The Gulf of Aqaba is a narrow arm of the Red Sea, a deep trench between Jordan and Saudi Arabia on one side and Sinai on the other, and its clear water holds some of the northernmost coral reefs in the world. Jordan's marine reserve runs along a short coastal strip south of Aqaba, where the mountains of the desert drop to a thin ribbon of beach and the water goes from beige to turquoise to deep blue within a hundred metres.
Aqaba is the city that makes sense of it: nearly a hundred thousand people, Jordan's only seaport, and a free-trade zone where desert and sea meet. In 1917, Arab forces under Faisal's army and T. E. Lawrence took the Ottoman-held town from the landward side, a daring move because the Turkish guns pointed out to sea. The old fort and a few historic buildings recall that. Tala Bay, further south, is a resort development, and the coast road passes dive centres.
Getting here from the north, you ride down the Desert Highway or the more spectacular King's Highway, then drop through a long descent to a hot, low-lying coast. The Dead Sea Highway is another option. In summer, temperatures at sea level can pass forty degrees, and the wind carries the smell of salt and diesel from the port. Best seasons are spring and autumn, with winter mild and pleasantly sunny, though the odd storm can bring flash floods in the wadis.
Aqaba has plenty of petrol stations, and the road south toward the Saudi border has stations. The reefs are the draw, so bring snorkel gear or arrange a dive, since the coral near shore can be reached from the beach in places. Fish markets and restaurants in town serve grilled fish and good hummus. Remember to carry water and sun protection, and check local rules for riding and camping, since this is a sensitive border area. The ride's reward is the wide silence of the gulf at sunset.