Applecross is a village at the end of a very long road, and that is its whole charm. It lies on the western shore of the peninsula, looking across the Inner Sound to Raasay and the mountains of Skye, with a row of white cottages along the bay and the hills crowding behind. The Gaelic name, A' Chomraich, means the sanctuary, and it recalls the monastery founded here in 673 by the Irish monk Maelrubha, who came from Bangor in Ireland and spent decades spreading Christianity through the northwest Highlands. A small graveyard and a church stand where the early community lived, and the place retains a quiet sense of age.
Lunch is the reason for the stop, and the food here has a reputation that travels. The inn on the shore is known across Scotland for seafood, and langoustines, scallops, crab and fish landed at nearby harbours reach the table within hours. Tables fill quickly in summer, so booking is wise, and the portions are generous. If you prefer something simpler, the village has a small shop and a café, and a walled garden nearby has a tearoom in season. Check opening times, because winter hours are shorter and the area is remote.
The ride to Applecross is either over the Bealach na Bà or by the coast road around the north of the peninsula from Shieldaig, a longer and gentler route that follows the shore through scattered crofts and views of the sea. The coast road is single-track with passing places, with moderate bends and long views, and it is a fine ride when the weather is kind. Take care with sheep, which wander freely, and with oncoming traffic on blind rises. Midges, the small biting flies of the Highlands, can be a plague on still, damp evenings from late spring to early autumn, so carry repellent and keep moving.
Fuel is a problem. There is none in Applecross itself, and the nearest large settlement in the data is far away, so fill up at Lochcarron or Shieldaig before you head over, and treat the tank as a precious resource. Mobile coverage is patchy, and the weather can turn quickly.
After lunch, walk down to the shore. The beach is pebbly and the water is cold, but the view of Skye across the sound is magnificent, and on clear evenings the sunset lights the sea in gold and pink.