Every year on the last Sunday in April, the people of Appenzell Innerrhoden gather in the main square, men and women, many with a ceremonial sword or a bayonet at the hip, and vote with raised hands. The Landsgemeinde is one of the last open-air assemblies of its kind in Switzerland, and it takes place in the middle of this small town, which has been the capital of the half-canton for centuries. Women only gained a vote at the cantonal level here in 1990, after a federal court ruling, which tells you something about how conservative the valley is, and also how proud.
The town is compact and pretty in a plain way. The Hauptgasse is lined with painted wooden houses with bright facades, bakeries selling Biberli, the local spiced pastries, and cheese shops. Appenzeller cheese, made with a herb brine whose recipe is jealously kept, has a strong smell and a stronger taste, and a piece in your tank bag is a fair souvenir. Tucked around the edges are meadows, dotted with farmhouses and neat stacks of wood.
Behind the town rises the Alpstein massif, with the Säntis at 2,502 metres as its summit. The riding here is some of the most enjoyable in eastern Switzerland: green hills, gentle gradients, and a web of narrow, well-surfaced roads that run up and down the valleys. Speed limits are strictly enforced, and cars are numerous, so patience is rewarded. Towards the Schwägalp, the road climbs more seriously, with proper bends and a view of the mountain.
At about 780 metres, the town sits in a mild valley. Fuel and food are easy to find, and a population around five and a half thousand supports a good range of cafes. On a fine Saturday it fills with visitors, so come early or on a weekday, and give yourself an hour to walk the old streets.