Fish Creek Hill is the part of the Apache Trail that people remember, and some wish they had not. The road, by this stage a graded dirt track, drops down the side of a canyon in a series of steep, narrow switchbacks, with a very steep grade, loose gravel and a sheer drop on the outer edge. There are no guardrails to speak of. The colours of the rock are extraordinary, with bands of red, orange, yellow and white, and from the overlook at the top you can see the canyon winding below.
The road was built to support Roosevelt Dam, which was begun in 1903. Workers carved the route out of the cliffs using dynamite and mules, and it was the only way to bring in cement, machinery and food. It was named after the Apache people who had used trails in the area, and today it is a National Scenic Byway, although it has the quality of a frontier track. It is also an area of fascinating geology, with ancient volcanic tuff, a rock made of compressed ash, which has been eroded into spires, ledges and shadowy gullies.
Riding the hill demands concentration and a bike that is up to it. The surface is rough, and the corners are tight, and a heavy touring bike will be a handful. Go slowly, use low gear and engine braking, and keep to the inside of the road. Oncoming traffic may include large vehicles, and you may have to reverse to find a passing place. The road is often closed after rain, and the surface can become slick or washed out. If in doubt, turn back. Several riders each year come to grief here, and rescue is far away.
Make sure your tank is full before leaving Tortilla Flat, and carry spare water. Mobile phone coverage is poor, and a satellite messenger is a worthwhile investment if you are riding alone.
The creek at the bottom of the hill runs in wet weather, and the canyon is cool and shaded. Look for hawks and ravens riding the thermals above, and for lizards on the warm rocks. In spring the canyon is green after winter rain, and the cactus flowers bloom.
Take your time, and use the pull-outs to look. The colours are best in the afternoon.