Tortilla Flat is a town that is mostly a saloon. The population is usually given as six, and the entire community consists of a restaurant, a general store, a gift shop and an ice cream parlour, all in old wooden buildings in a little valley between rocky hills. It began as a stagecoach stop on the road to Roosevelt Dam, and later served as a camp for construction workers, and it has been catering to travellers ever since.
The saloon is the star. Its walls and ceiling are covered with dollar bills, signed and stuck up by visitors over the decades, and the bar stools are real saddles. Cheerful staff serve burgers, chilli and cold beer, and the shop next door sells prickly pear ice cream, a pink and slightly floral scoop that tastes better than it sounds. Boardwalks connect the buildings, and a small desert garden of cacti stands behind. It is touristy, but in an honest, enjoyable way.
For the rider, Tortilla Flat marks a change. The paved road continues for a few miles, then the surface turns to graded gravel, and the character of the ride shifts from sightseeing to adventure. The dirt section, about twenty miles, is generally passable on a touring bike when dry, but it is narrow, steep and exposed, with washboard sections and loose gravel, and it can close after heavy rain. Ask at the shop about conditions before continuing, and consider whether your bike and tyres are up to it. Many riders turn around here and ride back, which is a perfectly good choice.
Drinks, snacks and meals are available, and the store sells water. The mobile signal is patchy, and a breakdown could mean a long wait, so ride with a partner if possible and carry basic repair tools.
The surrounding hills are the home of saguaro, ocotillo, cholla and palo verde, and in spring after wet winters the desert blazes with flowers. Mornings are cool and the light is soft, and by noon the heat is strong. The best way to enjoy the town is to arrive early, have a coffee on the porch, and let the cheerful silliness of the place settle in.