Canyon Lake is a surprise: a long, narrow reservoir of deep turquoise water, tucked among red cliffs and saguaro-covered slopes in the middle of the Sonoran Desert. It is one of a chain of lakes on the Salt River, created by dams built in the 1920s to supply water and power to the Phoenix area, and it has the look of a fjord in a desert. The road runs along its shore with a series of bends that give a view across the water to the dark cliffs of the Superstitions.
The lake is a popular spot for boating, kayaking and fishing, and a small marina near the road offers rentals. A tour boat called the Dolly Steamboat takes visitors on a trip along the lake, and gives the guide a chance to point out bighorn sheep, bald eagles and peregrine falcons on the cliffs. The desert here is full of life, with coyotes, javelinas, rabbits and roadrunners, and in the early morning you may see mule deer coming to the water.
For riders, this is the best stretch of the paved section. The road is narrow, winding and well surfaced, with sweeping turns, small climbs and dips, and views across the lake on one side and rock walls on the other. It is not a road for speed. There are blind corners, and the edges are rough in places, with little or no guardrail. Cyclists and tourists often wander across the lane, so keep to your side. Traffic can be heavy on winter weekends, and early morning is the quietest.
Fuel is not available here. The nearest stations are in Apache Junction, about seventeen kilometres back, so make sure you are full before you start. The marina has a small store with drinks and snacks, and a lakeside restaurant is open on some days, but hours vary. Restrooms are available at the picnic areas.
The cliffs here glow in the late afternoon, turning rich shades of red and orange, and the lake reflects them in a deep blue. In spring, wildflowers bloom along the road, including poppies and lupines after good winter rains. In summer, the heat is intense, and most visitors come in the cooler months.
A short stop at one of the pull-outs is rewarded with silence, broken only by the wind and the occasional bird call.