Antofagasta is the capital of Chile's copper country, a port city of about three hundred thousand people squeezed between the Pacific and the driest desert on earth. It began as a small harbour of Bolivia, serving the nitrate fields and silver mines of the interior, and it passed into Chilean hands after the War of the Pacific in 1879. Its growth has always followed the mineral boom, from saltpetre in the nineteenth century to the great copper mines of today, and the streets still echo with the story of rich foreign companies, railway lines running inland and ships waiting at the docks.
For a rider, it is a big, functional city with all the usual services: fuel, repair shops, supermarkets, restaurants and hotels at every level. It is the place to fill the tank, change the oil and rest properly before the long, empty roads of the desert. The sea front has a long promenade, the harbour is lively and the fish restaurants serve fresh seafood, particularly sea bass and ceviche. Traffic is heavy in the centre, so allow time, and watch for the slow, heavy trucks heading to the mines.
The coastal road south toward Taltal is one of Chile's best rides, a long ribbon of asphalt running between steep, bare hills and a cold, blue sea. Corners are wide and rolling, the surface is generally excellent, and the views open and close with each bend. Fog, known as camanchaca, rolls in from the sea in the morning and can cut visibility sharply, usually burning off by midday. The wind is steady and sometimes strong, and in spring the sun is warm but not fierce. The desert is dry and sparse, though in rare wet years it blooms with flowers.
Just north of the city stands La Portada, a natural arch carved from the sea cliff by waves, and it is the symbol of Antofagasta. A short ride takes you to a viewpoint where you can see the sun set through the gap. The Atacama, which stretches inland, is among the driest places on the planet, with some weather stations recording no rain for years, and the clear air makes it home to some of the world's great observatories. Wrap up warm in the evening, because the sea breeze is cool, and eat well before you head south.