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Anejima and peripheral reefs

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Anejima is a speck of an island in the Ogasawara group, the Bonin Islands, scattered in the Pacific about a thousand kilometres south of Tokyo. Nobody rides a motorcycle to it. The only practical way to reach the group is the ferry from Tokyo to Chichijima, a trip of roughly a day, and the smaller islands around Chichijima are reached by boat or not at all. So this stop is really about the scenery of a reef and the story of the place, and if you are planning a ride here, plan it around Chichijima's little roads.

The islands have never been joined to any continent, and that shows in the wildlife. Many of the plants, land snails and insects are found nowhere else, which is why people compare the group to the Galapagos. UNESCO listed the Ogasawara Islands in 2011, partly for that evolutionary story. Surrounding the islands are coral reefs of a clear blue, and green turtles nest on the beaches.

The human history is odd and interesting. The islands were uninhabited when Western whalers and sailors started to stop here in the early nineteenth century, and a mixed group of settlers, including people from the Pacific, Europe and America, built a community on Chichijima. Commodore Perry visited in 1853 on his way to Japan. Japan took control in the 1870s. The islands were evacuated during the Second World War and then administered by the United States until they went back to Japan in 1968. The descendants of the first settlers still live there, and you can hear it in some of the family names.

On Chichijima there is a small town, Omura, with a petrol station, shops and places to eat. The roads wind along the coast and up to viewpoints, and traffic is light. Do not expect long rides, but the air is warm and the sea is always close, and the sunsets are famously good.

Read it in a ride

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