The dot falls north-west of Andermatt, in the high Urner Alps near the Susten Pass road, where granite peaks, glaciers and bare slabs of rock dominate the view and the road clings to the mountainside as it climbs. It is country that feels cold even in summer, with snow lingering in the gullies and the air smelling of stone and meltwater. Andermatt itself, the label on the map, lies about fifteen kilometres to the south-east in the Urseren valley, a flat, wide, windy basin at about 1,440 metres.
That valley is a crossroads. Four passes meet here: the Gotthard to the south, the Furka to the west, the Oberalp to the east, and the Susten to the north-west, and the town has long been a garrison for the Swiss army, protecting the route through the mountains. The Devil's Bridge, a short walk down the Schöllenen gorge, is the stuff of legend: the story goes that the devil built the first crossing in return for the first soul to cross it, and was cheated when the villagers sent over a goat. A statue and a gorge, and an old stone bridge next to the modern one, make it an easy stop.
In recent years Andermatt has been transformed by a large resort development with luxury hotels and apartments, but the old centre remains small and quiet. The Gotthard Pass, at 2,106 metres, has a historic cobbled road, the Tremola, with dozens of hairpins climbing the southern side, and the paved modern road next to it is smoother. Both are worth riding, though the cobbles are demanding in the wet and slippery under tyres.
Riders heading for the Susten should note it is a toll-free pass that closes in winter, usually from around November to May, and reaches 2,224 metres. The road is a broad, engineered masterpiece, with tunnels and bends and views of the Stein glacier, and in the morning, the light on the ice is exceptional.
Fuel is available in Andermatt and in Wassen, further down, but not in the high country, so fill up before you go. Cafes in Andermatt serve hearty food, and the Gotthard region is known for its cheese and dried meats. Take a warm layer even in July.