Andenes sits on the northern tip of Andøya, the northernmost island in the Vesterålen archipelago, and it is where the Arctic Ocean begins to feel close. The town is small, with about 2,700 people, a harbour, a lighthouse and a collection of low houses on a flat spit of land, and its main claim to fame is whales. Just off the coast, the continental shelf drops steeply, bringing deep water close to shore, and sperm whales feed there in summer, so boat trips run daily from the harbour. The Whale Safari is a well-established business, and sightings are common, though never guaranteed.
The town has a long history of fishing, and the old lighthouse, built in 1859, still stands on the shore. Andøya was also the site of a Norwegian rocket range, built in the 1960s for research into the northern lights and the upper atmosphere, and it is now being developed for small satellite launches. A museum, the Arctic Whale Centre, explains the whales, and the Polar Museum tells of Arctic exploration. In autumn and winter, the northern lights are bright over the sea, and in summer, the midnight sun reigns.
The Andøya route runs along the west coast of the island, a quiet, open road that follows the shore of the Norwegian Sea, past sandy beaches, bog land and low hills. The surface is good, and the curves are gentle, with the open sea on one side and mountains on the other. Wind can be strong, and in winter, snow and ice are likely. Traffic is light, and you can ride for kilometres with no other vehicle. Look out for sea eagles, whooper swans and, if lucky, elk on the moors.
Andenes has fuel stations, shops and restaurants, so it is a good place to prepare. Myre, further south, also has services, but beyond that, the road is quiet. Local cafes serve fish soup, waffles and coffee, and in summer the quay is lively with boats coming and going. The ferry to Gryllefjord on Senja leaves from here in summer, and it is a nice addition. Rest by the lighthouse in the evening, and watch the sea turn golden.