Åndalsnes is a small town at the head of the Romsdalsfjord, hemmed in by some of the most vertical mountains in Norway. The Romsdalshorn, a sharp pyramid of rock, rises above the valley to the south, and the Trollveggen, Europe's tallest vertical rock face at around a thousand metres, stands a short way up the valley. The town itself is modest, with a few thousand people, a railway terminus, a harbour and a handful of cafes, and its main business is welcoming people who come for the mountains.
The riding from here is world famous. Trollstigen, the Troll's Ladder, climbs from the valley in eleven hairpin bends to a high plateau, with a waterfall, Stigfossen, dropping beside the road. It was opened in 1936 after years of work and is still a feat of engineering, with stone walls and tight corners. The pass is closed in winter, usually from late autumn to May or June, depending on snow, so check before you plan. Beyond, the road continues toward Geiranger, with the fjord far below and ferries crossing in the summer months.
Trollstigen draws crowds, and in July and August the road is full of campervans, coaches and cars, with cyclists and other motorcyclists among them. Early mornings and evenings are quieter, and midweek is better than weekends. Rain and low cloud are common, and the cloud can drop to cover the hairpins, so ride carefully. A small visitor centre at the top has viewing platforms and a cafe, though prices are high.
The town has fuel, a supermarket and a handful of places to eat, and it is the last real service point before the pass. The nearest larger town is Molde, about thirty kilometres away along the fjord, with a good selection of shops and a jazz festival every July. Fill the tank here, as stations on the mountain roads are scarce.
Åndalsnes is also a place to take things slowly. The light on the fjord in the evening, with the mountains turning pink, makes it worth staying an extra night, and the river running through the village is full of salmon in season.