On the limestone hills west of Aleppo, hundreds of abandoned villages stand in a landscape of olive groves and stony fields, their houses, churches, oil presses and tombs built of finely cut stone between the first and seventh centuries. These are the Ancient Villages of Northern Syria, often called the Dead Cities, listed by UNESCO in 2011. They were prosperous farming communities in the late Roman and Byzantine periods, growing olives and grapes for trade, and were abandoned for reasons still debated, perhaps changing trade routes and the political upheavals of the seventh century.
What remains is extraordinary: whole villages with houses still standing to their roofs in some places, churches with arched doorways and carved decoration, and baths and tombs scattered across the hills. The most famous site is the Church of Saint Simeon Stylites, built around the pillar where the saint lived for decades, and other remarkable buildings include the basilica of Qalb Lozeh, with its massive arches.
The past decade and more of war has had a heavy impact on the region. Parts of the area were fought over, some sites were damaged, and many were used as shelters by displaced people. Since the political changes of late 2024, the situation in Syria has been changing, but security risks, including unexploded ordnance and instability, remain serious concerns. Anyone considering a visit must check current official travel advice, travel with local knowledge and stay on established roads and paths.
In more peaceful times, the riding in this region was lovely: small roads winding through olive groves, over limestone hills and past villages, with ancient ruins appearing around every corner. The roads were narrow and sometimes rough, and the summers hot and dry, but spring, with wildflowers and green fields, was magical.
Nubl, about fourteen kilometres away, and the larger towns of the region have fuel and supplies, depending on the current situation. Syrian food is a pleasure anywhere: try fresh bread from a bakery, a plate of hummus, muhammara made with roasted peppers and walnuts, and a strong coffee. If and when the region is stable, the Dead Cities will once again be one of the most remarkable places in the Middle East to explore.