Ananuri is the first place on the Georgian Military Highway where history interrupts the scenery. The fortress stands on a bluff above the Aragvi river, which here is dammed into the bright turquoise Zhinvali reservoir, and its pale stone towers and walls make a striking picture against the water and the mountains behind. It was the seat of the Dukes of Aragvi, built in the seventeenth century, and its walls enclose two churches, one of which has carved crosses and vines around its doors that are worth a close look.
The fortress was a place of fighting as well as faith. In 1739, a rival noble family attacked and burned it, killing the duke and his household, and it later became a stronghold against invaders from the north. The castle guarded the route that runs from Tbilisi through the Caucasus to Russia, which has been one of the most important roads in the region for centuries, and walking among the walls you feel how many travellers have passed this way. Stalls near the gate sell local honey, churchkhela and souvenirs.
The riding on this section is great. The road from Tbilisi follows the Aragvi valley north, climbing steadily through hills of oak and beech and then into the mountains, with wide, open bends and a surface that varies from smooth to rough, with potholes and patches where the road has been repaired. Lorries, minibuses and cattle share the road, and the drivers can be unpredictable, so stay alert and expect a lot of overtaking. The reservoir is at its most colourful in summer, and spring brings green slopes and snowy summits.
Fuel needs a little planning. Zhinvali, a small settlement beside the reservoir, has basic services, but the larger towns are further away, so fill up in Tbilisi or in a bigger town before you set out, and check the tank again at the next major stop, as the road to Gudauri is long and there are only a few stations. Bring warm clothing, as the weather changes fast in the mountains, and carry water, since the climb can be hot in summer. Give yourself time to walk around the fortress, because it deserves more than a quick photograph.