On the old road between Isfahan and Shiraz, in a dry, high landscape of rocky ridges and pale fields, the village of Izadkhast clings to an outcrop of rock like a ship that ran aground. Its mud-brick houses climb the stone in tiers, so densely stacked that the walls and the cliff seem to be the same material, and a deep gorge runs beside it, crossed by a Safavid-era caravanserai built on a long stone bridge, so that travellers passed over the chasm and through the building at once. It is one of the more unlikely sights on the Persian plateau.
What I can say is that the whole district is full of old roads, caravanserais and mud-walled villages, because this was a major trading route for centuries, carrying merchants, pilgrims and armies between the cities. The remains of that traffic are everywhere: broken bridges, ice houses, water cisterns and stopping places a day's ride apart.
The riding is high-plateau Iran at its most characteristic. The altitude is around two thousand metres, which means cool nights even in summer, and the roads run across wide plains broken by low ridges, with distant snow-streaked mountains in winter. The main highway is fast and in good condition, and heavy with lorries, while side roads can be rough with sand drifts and potholes. The wind, particularly in spring, can be strong and gritty. Spring brings brief green over the plain, and autumn gives clear, dry air.
There are no large towns nearby, so you should plan your fuel and food carefully. Abadeh, further south, is a larger town known for its woodcarving and for its place on the main road, and Shahreza and Isfahan are the bigger centres to the north. Along the highway, you will find petrol stations and roadside restaurants serving kebab, rice and tea, which are fine for a break.
Isfahan and Shiraz are themselves among the most beautiful cities in Iran, so this stretch makes a fine link between them, and the sense of crossing a historic corridor adds an extra dimension to the day. If you stop in Izadkhast, be respectful when walking through the lanes, since people live in the houses, and ask before taking photographs of residents.