Amada is the smallest of the Nubian temples saved from Lake Nasser, and in some ways the finest. It was built in the fifteenth century BC under Thutmose III and Amenhotep II, and its painted reliefs are among the best preserved in Egypt, with colours still fresh inside the sanctuary. When the High Dam threatened to drown Lower Nubia, the whole temple was lifted onto rails in the mid-1960s and moved a couple of kilometres inland to higher ground, a feat of engineering that is easy to miss when you stand in front of the modest sandstone walls. The famous Abu Simbel temples lie farther south, and Wadi es-Sebua farther north, with Amada in between.
The setting is stark. You are in the Nubian Desert, on the western shore of Lake Nasser, with pale sand, black rock and a flat horizon, and the lake appears as a thin blue line in the distance. Roads in the area are few and sparse, and the stretches between settlements can be long and empty, so travel with a full tank, plenty of water and a plan for what to do if something goes wrong. The heat is intense from May to September, and the best season is October to March, when mornings are cool and the light is soft. Rules on travel in this region, including permits and convoys, change from time to time, so check current requirements before you set off.
The nearest dependable base is Aswan, with Abu Simbel offering basic supplies and hotels for those who go that far. Carry your own fuel and water, and treat the desert with respect.
Inside the temple, look for the inscription of a king who recorded a campaign, and for the carved scenes of offerings that still glow in warm colours. A guardian will often unlock the door, and a small tip is customary. Step out into the glare afterwards and the silence of the desert feels immense, as if the temple itself were listening.