AlUla lies in a broad sandstone basin in north-west Saudi Arabia, and the first thing you notice when you arrive is the shape of the rock. Cliffs of red and ochre stand straight up from a flat valley floor, carved by wind into mushrooms, arches and buttresses, and the oasis of date palms at their base looks almost unreal against the stone. The town is around thirty thousand people, with the old mudbrick quarter still standing on the hillside above the modern streets.
Human history here is deep. The Dadanite and Lihyanite kingdoms controlled the trade in incense and spices centuries before the Nabataeans, the people of Petra, took over the oasis. At Hegra, a short ride north, more than a hundred rock-cut tombs from the first century line the sandstone outcrops, with carved facades and Nabataean inscriptions, and it was the first place in Saudi Arabia to be listed by UNESCO. Later came the Hejaz railway, built by the Ottomans to carry pilgrims, whose station buildings still stand in the desert nearby.
The riding is the real treat. Roads in the area are smooth and quiet, with fine surface, long clean sweeps across the desert plain and then a few tight turns where the highway cuts through the cliffs. Elephant Rock, a free-standing sandstone mass near the road, is the famous photo stop, best at sunset when the light turns it orange. Wind can blow sand across the road, so slow down when you see dust, and keep a close eye on sheep or camels near the verge.
Timing matters. From November to March days are warm and nights cool, ideal for riding, while from May to September temperatures reach the forties and the sun is relentless. Drink more water than you think you need, wear light long sleeves, and carry spare. Fuel and food are plentiful in AlUla itself, but distances between towns in the desert are long, so fill up before leaving. A guided visit is required for the main areas of Hegra, so book ahead.