Medellín lies in a narrow valley at about 1,500 metres, and the road out of it to the east climbs sharply to the Alto de Las Palmas, 2,550 metres above sea level, in a long series of curves above the city. At the top, a viewpoint looks back over the whole Aburrá Valley, with the city's towers laid out in a ribbon far below and the cloud often curling over the ridges. It is one of the classic views of the city, and on a clear evening, when the lights come on, it is hard to leave.
The road is a favourite with local riders and cyclists, who come here on weekends in large numbers. The gradient is steady, the bends are open and well surfaced, and trucks grind up in low gear, so overtaking calls for judgement. Cloud and drizzle are common near the top, reducing visibility, and the temperature falls enough to make a jacket welcome. The road continues downhill on the other side toward Rionegro and the plateau that holds the international airport, with a different landscape of gentle hills, flower farms and cooler air.
The surrounding area is part of the Colombian Andes, where the Central Cordillera is covered in forest and farmland. Pines and eucalyptus planted decades ago line sections of the road, and there are still patches of native cloud forest on steeper slopes. Birdlife is rich, and mornings bring a loud chorus. Antioquia's farming culture is strong, and roadside stalls and restaurants serve local food, including the hearty bandeja paisa, a platter of beans, rice, pork and plantain that can defeat any appetite.
As a practical matter, Medellín and its neighbouring towns, such as Envigado and Sabaneta, have plenty of fuel, workshops and food. On the climb itself there are service stations and restaurants, but check your tank before you start. Weekend traffic can be heavy, and security advice for Colombian roads is worth reading, particularly regarding where to park and what to leave on the bike. Stay on well-travelled routes and ride in daylight.
Mornings are best, when the air is clear and the city is quiet. Later in the day, the mist often settles and the road feels more like the high Andes than a suburban escape.