Beyond Thredbo, the Alpine Way climbs to its high point at Dead Horse Gap, at about 1,580 metres, and enters a landscape of snow gums, granite boulders and open heath. This is the wild heart of Kosciuszko National Park, and the road crosses the main range here, with long views to the west toward the Murray valley and the plains of Victoria. Mist is common, and so are sudden changes in temperature.
The riding is demanding but rewarding. The road is narrow and winding, with tight bends and steep climbs and descents, and the surface can be rough in places. Gravel, leaves and branches can collect on the corners, and in winter ice and snow are real hazards. Traffic is light, but there are few places to pass, and wildlife on the road is a constant risk. Take your time, and use the pull-outs to enjoy the scenery.
The name of Dead Horse Gap is said to come from a group of brumbies, or wild horses, that perished in a snowstorm, though the story is hard to confirm. The area has a long history of use by cattlemen, who brought herds up from the plains each summer, and by Aboriginal people, who gathered here for the annual feast of Bogong moths. The moths, which migrate to the high country each summer, were an important food source, and their numbers have declined in recent years.
The plants of the high country are adapted to cold and wind, with small leaves, hairy stems and compact forms. In summer, the meadows are covered with wildflowers, and in winter, they are buried under metres of snow. The snow gum, with its twisted trunk and smooth, colourful bark, is the iconic tree of the alps.
Carry water, snacks, warm clothing and a basic repair kit. The nearest fuel is in Jindabyne to the east and Khancoban to the west, both a long way off, so check your range before setting out. Weather can turn quickly, so be ready to turn back or wait out a storm.