Thredbo is a ski village in a steep valley under the highest peaks of the Australian mainland, and it has a very different feel from the open lake country around Jindabyne. The village sits beside the Thredbo River, with chalets and lodges climbing the slopes, and in winter it fills with skiers. In summer, the chairlift carries walkers and mountain bikers up the slope, and the track to the summit of Mount Kosciuszko, at 2,228 metres the highest point in Australia, starts nearby.
The ride from Jindabyne is a pleasure. The Alpine Way follows the Thredbo Valley, with the river on one side and forested slopes on the other, and the curves are smooth and flowing. The surface is good, and the views open between the trees, with glimpses of snow-capped peaks in winter and spring. Wildlife is common, and wombats, kangaroos and wallabies graze near the road at dawn and dusk. Drive carefully, as collisions with animals are a real hazard.
Thredbo was developed after the Second World War, when Czech engineer Tony Sponar, a skiing enthusiast, found the site and persuaded the authorities to develop it. The village grew into a major resort and has a reputation for its summer mountain biking and its winter ski season. The 1997 landslide that destroyed two lodges is remembered with a memorial, and visitors may notice the quiet respect with which locals treat the subject.
The town has cafes, restaurants, bars and shops, though many close outside the ski season. Fuel is not reliably available in the village, so fill up in Jindabyne before you go. Park entry fees apply, and there may be requirements to carry snow chains in winter. Check road conditions before setting out, because snow and ice can close the road.
Spring and autumn are good seasons for riding, with mild temperatures and fewer visitors, while summer can bring thunderstorms and bushfire smoke. Carry layers, waterproofs and sun protection, because the weather in the alps can change within an hour. A stop at a cafe with a view of the mountains makes a good break.